Willow reflection with ice of retreating Walker Glacier. Alsek River watershed, Alaska. As wild and pristine a place as I’ve found.

Glaciers are strange beasts—grinding rock from the landscape to create the black streak of rubble-covered ice in the background. Yet the white ice & green water reflect colors of purity, heavy with fine flour from the glacier mill, but with almost no organic carbon yet.

Willows are one of the earliest plants to grow on bare silty gravel uncovered after thousands of years under ice. They add nitrogen to the soil, favoring other plants.

Climate change is accelerating changes in this pristine landscape. This lake didn’t exist in 1984. Walker Glacier was a few meters from the Alsek River. By 2013, the glacier had retreated 800 meters. The new lake was 750m wide and 1800 m long.

11-day rafting trip on the Tatshenshini & Alsek Rivers with 10 friends through 3 Canadian and USA national parks that combine into largest designated wilderness in world.